Old Town: The Surprise Ipoh Street Art
When I took my Thai colleague whitewater rafting in Gopeng over a weekend out of Kuala Lumpur, we opted to stay in one of the new fashionable boutique hotels that are now springing up in nearby Ipoh. And then when we did some research on what else we could do, we discovered …the existence of Ipoh street art!
Not just any street art. The same kind of street art that rocketed Penang to internet stardom, by the same artist, Ernest Zacharavic.
So the day after we enjoyed the jungle rapids, was spent in a much more relaxed saunter around the charming Ipoh old town.
The serendipity of Ipoh street art
The morning was lovely. My colleague W–i, his wife M–d, daughter A–y and I drove into Ipoh old town. Of course I came with a map for where the art was located.
However, Ipoh old town is not very big, and is much less busy than Georgetown, Penang. It had a much more relaxed, slow-paced feel. There is no hubbub and no rush. Although it was a weekend, there were hardly any tourists. So we had all the time we wanted with the murals and the art.
When I visited Georgetown for its street art, I went alone. I was in a solo mood at the time anyway, so it suited me. Still, the downside to this was that I could not take playful pictures with the art.
This time though, I had friends. Plus, did I mention there was much less ‘other people’?
Fun with street art!
I’m pretty blessed in that many of my workmates turn into friends. Even if we mostly work in – as they say – ‘a virtual team’. As in we’re not in the same office. It’s something that really would only happen when there’s a really low need to compete with each other, and a collegial – almost family-like – dynamic emerges. It’s nothing to do with the company I work for. Rather, it’s one of those rare things that just happen sometimes. Definitely to be cherished, especially if it somehow manages to occur even in a corporate environment.
So W–i was feeling like quite the photographer that weekend, and brought his good camera. He also has a pretty good eye and has no trouble directing us to compose a good photo. Which meant… all us girls get a photoshoot!
The tin mining roots of Ipoh
I think my favourite mural is the one done in a sort of Chinese style, depicting a scene of tin mining against jutting limestone outcrops (for frontal view = feature photo).
Ipoh town as it is today, like many towns of Malaysia, expanded during British colonial rule. In Ipoh’s particular case, the tin deposits of the Kinta Valley brought a ‘tin rush’ in the form of Chinese migrants, which is why the old town today retains a strong Chinese flavour.
In its heyday, tin mined from the Kinta Valley dominated the global commodity markets for this resource, and was one of the reasons why the Malay peninsula was a valuable colonial region for the British empire.
The limestone hills of Ipoh
The other reason why I like the choice of style for the mural, is the limestone outcrops in the background.
I sometimes wondered whether the limestone hills around the Ipoh area was an additional draw for the Chinese migrants that came here, seeking an escape from the bitter poverty of China back then. In profile, they do seem reminiscent of the limestone hills of Guilin. Such hills are often very well depicted in Chinese painting, so it rather suited the mural to be in this style.
They are really quite magnificent, rising in broken greys from the horizon, topped with wigs of green. Temples lie in the cradle of its overhangs.
The road approach to Ipoh from the north is in my opinion one of the most beautiful road trip views in peninsular Malaysia, because of the dramatic loom of limestone along the way. The reverse direction is less impressive, because the angles aren’t the same. I don’t have photos to prove this, since I’m invariably driving at the time (or do I…? No, no… totally driving and absolutely very safely).
Strike a pose!
Here I must confess. It helped me that my friend’s family really love to pose and be, well, girls.
Those things are difficult for me, especially back then. I had no female role models growing up, that positively represented finery and female merriment. Oh I clean up well enough – when the occasion requires. But it was regal, not fun. The women of my family by and large make good Amazons – but not Aphrodites. We are Bugis, after all.
So it takes quite a bit to get me to relax enough to take good photos.
I kind of need to be captured when I’m not paying too much attention, by a competent photographer (because I find your loved ones will like a picture of you just because it’s you – so they don’t put that much effort to try to get a photo of you that other people will like – am I right?).
But when I’m with my friends, I do relax. I feel safe as myself. And if they’re playing, so will I. So because M–d and A–y fall so naturally into the photo shoot, it became easy for me.
The Ipoh street art, as with Penang, drew much from the local nostalgia and whimsy.
There was one though, that we felt must have suffered from alteration – the hummingbird. It hovers on the wall, facing empty space. We wondered, looking at some possible vine traces on the whitewashed wall, whether there used to be a sapling or climbing vines against that wall, that would have presented the 3D element of the artwork. Perhaps it became overgrown and so it was cleared.
Nonetheless, in the absence of any counterpoint to the hummingbird, W–i talked me into basically kissing the bird’s beak. Hands down it’s the most ridiculous photo I have ever taken!
The other Ipoh street art
Just like in Penang, the commissioned Ernest Zacharavic street art began to inspire local artistic expression.
When we were there, the Zacharavic street art was not much more than a year old. Nonetheless we could already see signs that local artists had begun to draw inspiration, and begin to annotate their town with imagination. Whether original or borrowed. Like the colourful umbrellas-over-street installation.
One that I quite liked was rather tasteful and discreet. It was painted on rough tiled wall, and depicted small leaves swirling and carried on wind.
I liked it, because unlike most street art it was painted right at the entrance of an office – a bank, if I recall correctly. A bank – one of the most indefatigably stuffy and boring of professions.
Wandering around, we came across another mural that I thought notable because it is actually an official public service message. But, unlike any of these that I’d seen before, this one had next to it, what is essentially street art (is it still graffiti if it’s sanctioned?). It’s actually pretty good.
I hear that by now, there’s a lot more street art that has been added to the town.
I cannot write about Ipoh without mentioning Ipoh food. However, we did not go on a foodie trip and I am a southerner, so I will just refer you to this little list by a true blue Ipoh native: 15 Ipoh Must-Eats That Are Approved By Local Foodies.
However, we did have to eat. It gets hungry, walking all morning posing for photos!
Tau fu fa
We got a bit peckish in the middle of the morning.
While strolling down one of the old town streets we came across a tau fu fa (=soybean curd) shop that looked kind of interesting. I like tau fu fa – one of my favourite desserts. Looking at the menu, I was surprised to see that there are many novel flavours to tau fu fa these days rather than just the conventional “with sugar” and “with brown sugar” options. There was a red bean one, and a cincau (=grass jelly) one, and I can’t remember what else.
I’m a sucker for novel flavours. I had to try at least one of those.
However, we were in for an even better treat when we got in! This particular shop had decided to turn its upper floor into an eating area + tau fu fa mini museum!
Along the walls were murals showing the stages of soybean harvesting and processing, to make tau fu fa. It was complemented by samples and little models of the different equipment and stages of tau fu fa production. Some – in line with the semi-3D Zacharavic art – combine the two, rendering the art just as ‘playable’.
Not only that, the cafe area itself was dotted by decorations and artistic touches using soybeans as the medium.
And no. I don’t remember the name of the shop… Sorry. I wasn’t a blogger then!
The downside to an awesome place
The only downside to this place is that all the soybean products are sold and served in disposable plastic, as you can see from the bottom left photo. Now I try to avoid those as much as possible. But in the case of this cafe I’m not sure whether they would have been able to serve the tau fu fa in real bowls.
Hopefully as Ipoh turns into a happening town, it becomes a more environmentally aware one too. After all, Perak is attempting to ban retail plastic bags. Hopefully it really does shift the habits of people to suit a less convenience-waste paradigm.
Ipoh’s hipster cafe trend
Ipoh has always had a coffee culture. Ipoh white coffee is famous throughout at least peninsula Malaysia, and I’m told visitors buy them as foodie souvenirs.
However, in recent times, a very interesting development is taking place. Ipoh has begun to boom with its own particular take on hipster cafes. Apparently this – along with the other charms of Ipoh – has made it edgy enough to make the cut at #6 on Lonely Planet’s best Asian destinations.
Back then though, I didn’t have the vocabulary to describe this. Hey, I’m a practical introverted scientist, not a fashionable social butterfly! All I knew was that this cafe that we came across was really interesting.
The jungle-hipster one
As far as I could tell there was no signage giving the name of the establishment – only a hedge of foliage screening its front. As if the shop was saying ‘no paparazzi!’ I suppose one could say the funky face thing looking down from the top window might count as a sign. Pre-literacy? Or rather, shop signage – but ironically?
The inside is just as cool. The main… uh, area? has an intricate stylised mural of jungle. Dotted around are random pieces of furniture art, like a table frame that stretched into a horse, and guppy bowls moulded around tree branches. The menu is very fashionably on strips of bamboo. There really wasn’t anything in this place that wasn’t cool.
I’m already nearly sold just by the nature spots and how put-together Ipoh neighbourhoods tend to be. I mean, I am Malaysian. I know very well how uh, indifferent we can be to the value of things like a fresh lick of paint and general maintenance. But from my wanderings two places in Malaysia are different from their peers – Melaka and Ipoh are noticeably more house-proud.
Seriously, if there are by now even more of these curious things in Ipoh I might have to move there!