India Archives - Teja on the Horizon

View down a mountain through the opening between two opposing slopes. The foreground is in shade, contrasting with the sunlit conifers on the right slope. Beyond are forested Kashmiri mountains beneath thick white cloud.

Horse Trekking in the Rugged Mountain Valleys around Naranag

I gave up with Balli. Ever since we left Naranag, the horse had utterly ignored my attempts to steer her, whether with the reins or...

Intact structure within the ruins of Naranag temple complex

The Temple Ruins on the Way to Gangabal Lake

I had never heard of Naranag before I came to Kashmir. So I expected little from this rural village, barely a hamlet. But when our...

View through a wooden bridge frame along a mountain creek in Kashmir. River rocks line the banks and tall conifer trees flank sides of the narrow creek. The bridge frame forms a V in the foreground.

Visiting Kashmir under Military Law: What You Need to Know

Kashmir is a beautiful region of the Himalayas, a classic dream destination with the moniker ‘Paradise on Earth’. The lovely lakes of its capital, Srinagar,...

I Went to Kashmir after Its Autonomy was Revoked

I went to Srinagar in September 2019, when Kashmir was still in turmoil. On 5 August, India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi and his BJP-led government...