Shadows of the Mughals by the Red Fort of Delhi
I had a free day in between the day I got my train tickets to Agra, and the day of actually going to Agra. So I decided to join a Delhi walking tour that my...
Category: Where in blazes was Teja?
We have made you into nations and tribes so that you might come to know one another.
We Nearly Bought a Goat in the Delhi Goat Market!
I did not expect to see much sign of Eid-ul-Adha in New Delhi, when I found myself there last year of the eve of the holiday, instead of back home. Although Muslims are a significant...
How to Spend Just One Day in Lucknow
I had one day in Lucknow, and a laundry list of must-sees, courtesy of an Indian travel blogger in my network. I figured, even if I came to Lucknow on a whim, I thought I...
The Tuktuk Driver in Lucknow Train Station
I did not need a tuktuk driver in Lucknow. The modest 3-star hotel that I booked (mainly because I couldn’t find backpackers’ hostels for Lucknow), came with a pickup service. I suppose Lucknow is...
Leaving Varanasi on a Train Bound for Lucknow
I stowed my things beneath the bottom bunk, climbed up to mine, and breathed a sigh of relief. The train leaving Varanasi had not left without me. A detour for Banaras silk before leaving...
Underground in Varanasi: Contrasts and Blasphemies
By far, the most common remark from foreigners who have travelled in India, is that she does not leave you unmoved. Whether you loved her or hated her, whether you’ve felt both – in...
Seeking Sanctuary on a Sarnath Day Trip
My Sarnath day trip was an impromptu decision. That day, I actually intended to explore more of old Varanasi – specifically the festival that was going to be observed in the Kashi Vishwanath temple....
My Varanasi Day Tour with a Shiva Devotee – The Burning Ghat
A procession approached us, headed to Varanasi’s burning ghat, while we were drinking our chai. It was a group of people surrounding a smaller group of pallbearers. On the litter that they bore was...
My Varanasi Day Tour with a Shiva Devotee – Shiva City
Varanasi. Benaras. Kashi. Anandavana. Rudravasa. Avimukta.* Arriving in Varanasi Varanasi hit me like a ton of bricks. I had braced myself for the intensity of movement, of very many people in a very small...
A Kumari Contemplates Kathmandu Durbar Square
The tour guide seemed to hope greatly. An older man, he insisted on showing me his credentials as an authorised independent guide with quiet dignity. And he continued giving me his pitch on why...
Experiencing Singing Bowl Sound Therapy in Nepal
There was a little cafe in front of the meditation place in Pokhara, where I was instructed to go to for my sound therapy session. Umbrella Cafe was a hippy sort of place, with...
The Kashmiri Serendipity: Stories of Female Travellers in Pokhara
I ended up staying with Kashmiris in Pokhara, because I purposely did not book my post-trekking accommodations in advance. That’s basically me trying to be spontaneous and making space for serendipity. I was in...
